It’s hard to be sure which “wave” of breweries Maine is currently experiencing. Inarguably, the OGs like Geary’s, Shipyard, Gritty’s, and Sebago represent the first. But with such a proliferation of newcomers since the late twenty-aughts, it’s probably anachronistic to even think of them as waves anymore. The constant expansion of the scene also means the level of professional expertise here is first-rate, and over the last few years we’ve seen numerous brewers bow out of established outfits to strike out on their own as heads of brewing for new upstarts.
The latest example is Tyler “Doeboy” Havrilko. For several years Doeboy was a mainstay at Oxbow, helping oversee the production of dozens of masterful farmhouse ales, along with more experimental wilds and sours. When Brickyard Hollow — a brand new brewpub in the space formerly occupied by Anthony’s Dry Cleaning on Main Street in Yarmouth — had to pivot in the early going and find a head brewer prior to launch, it felt like the perfect situation.
I was struck by the extent to which his time at Oxbow has influenced Doe’s brewing style. His beers are remarkably dry and well attenuated. Getting that sweetness out of the way allows all the other ingredients to shine brightly and makes for a crisp and refreshing drinking experience across the variety of styles he’s brewing.
The Phoenix: You’re obviously still very early days here, but tell me about what you’ve brewed so far. Is there a certain stylistic direction you want to go in?
Tyler Havrilko: It’s a combination of past experience and new ideas. I’m brewing a saison next week because those are still my favorite style, the drier the better. It seems like the way I was taught to brew is translating into my beers. My Pale Ale and even my Double IPA are much drier than anything I’m experiencing right now out in the world. I definitely want to experiment though. Obviously, I was very homed in to a farmhouse tradition at Oxbow, but stylistically I don’t have any parameters besides making beer that I and other people want to drink. The first beer I ever brewed was the Kölsch, and people have been talking about that more than anything. Basically my mantra is just balance, I want to make balanced beers and tweak as needed.
The Phoenix: You’ve got your own beers on draft obviously, are you pouring other stuff as well?
Tyler Havrilko: Yep, we’re trying to keep the beer menu as Maine as possible. If it’s a style I don’t have on draft, I’ll find a Maine version of it. I don’t have anything dark going right now so I’ve got Mean Old Tom (from Maine Beer Company) and John Henry Milk Stout (from Fore River Brewing). It’s hard to please everyone, but we’ve got 12 taps — one is a rosé, one is a Kombucha. I’m hoping in the future to have up to six of my own beers on, and fill in the rest. We hope to do growlers for takeaway eventually.
The Phoenix: Yarmouth is an interesting community in that there’s a mixture of entrenched attitudes around the tiny-village feel of it all, alongside a lot of younger families. How have you found the response from the community thus far?
Tyler Havrilko: It’s been overwhelmingly positive. We’re already seeing regulars within the first few days. People love the food, the beer is getting a great reception and I think they’re easily pairable with each other. We’re trying to set the bar a little higher than what a brewpub probably needs to be, and just keep improving from there.
Brickyard Hollow Brewing Company | 236 Main St, Yarmouth | Open daily 3-10 pm | http://brickyardhollow.com